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Drawing Faces: a Different Approach.

 

steps 1-3, click for larger imageToday, I will be going over an approach to drawing faces using the classical method combined with a more modern approach. The photograph I was steps 4-6, click for larger imageworking from wasn't the best, so I did refer to a mirror real quick a couple times just for reference. Anyway, I just want to go over some tips and techniques for drawing faces that will help you. I use a classical approach, but I don't measure quite as much as the full method would require and sometimes use loose lines to help me get an idea of the proportions and angles. So, let's take a look at how I did it.

This drawing was done on 14x17" Bristol drawing paper. As you can see from the "step one" picture, it takes up most of the page. It's almost life size, but not quite. I worked from a picture that was on my computer. That way, I could display it large and straight up and down like drawing from life. It made it easier to do my measurements as well. I used a drawing board larger than my paper that I leaned up against the desk. Okay, on with the steps to drawing faces...

Note: the classical method isn't my preferred method of drawing faces, but you should learn how to do it so you can use some of these techniques in whatever style you choose.

Drawing Faces, Step 1...

When drawing faces, I prefer to work from general to specific. Start with the big pictures, then work to the small details.

I start out finding the largest proportions and shapes. I use light straight lines to simplify what I see. You can actually start seeing a likeness of the person at this stage. You don't even need the facial features to be able to tell who it is sometimes (if you get it right that is...). Keep it simple at this stage. Forget all the "small" proportions like the nose or ears. Just focus on the outer lines and the large areas as a whole.

Don't be afraid to draw lightly through an object. Like for the top of the chair, draw through the face lightly so the side of the chair to the left of the face lines up with the right side.

Drawing Faces, Step 2...

Still using straight lines, start looking for the largest facial features and getting their proportions down. Don't try to fully draw the nose, eyes, etc. right now. You may end up getting the proportions off and have to erase them. I try to use light, erasable lines until I'm pretty sure of how the everything is going.

You can also keep using your construction lines like I did to draw a line down the middle to get a feel for where everything should line up. Don't get too detailed yet. If you are strictly following the classical method, you will measure every facial feature to see exactly where it should go and how big it should be, but I prefer to just wing it. I use my best judgment for size and placement. It's good for training your eyes to see things better.

I do use my pencil to check vertical and horizontal alignments. For example, I might see where the right edge of the lips or chin fall compared to the nose and eyes. Hold your pencil out and see the angles. Notice how the bottom of the nose lines up with the bottom of the hair. Noticing little things like that adds up.

Drawing Faces, Step 3....

Let's do a little shading so you can see things a little better. At this stage, you might realize that something is out of proportion. Maybe the nose is too long or the lips are too wide. Get some light shading in there, not too dark, to help see what is going on. It's a good way to check your progress. Don't get carried away with shading yet. If you have any adjustments to make, you won't want to have to erase heavy shading.

Keep measuring with your pencil. It works whether you are working from a model or a photograph. Use a large photograph if you can, so you can see the necessary details. From life, you would hold the pencil at arms length. With a photograph you can prop the picture up and do the same, or hold the pencil right above the paper to get your horizontal and vertical alignments.

Also, here you can see my pencils and my eraser. I sharpen the pencils with a blade rather than a sharpener. This way, you can leave more lead exposed, extend the life of the pencil and fine tune the tip the way you want it. I might use a sandpaper block to really sharpen the lead. You need to use a sharp lead. Dull leads tend to make it hard to get the smaller details accurate. Also, note the kneaded eraser. I shape it sort of like a paint brush. Keep kneading the eraser with your hands to make a clean spot to erase. I sometimes even leave it dirty so it doesn't pick up "too" much of the lead and make it hard to fill back in.

Drawing Faces, Step 4...

Okay, onto part two and the second series of steps. Continue with your shading, and keep double checking everything. The more you shade, the more you will notice that something is wrong. In fact, sometimes you won't notice a problem until most of the drawing is finished. This is for two reasons. One, you've had more time to look at the picture and can now "see" more than you did at first. And two, with more of the picture done, anything really wrong will probably stand out more to become more noticeable.

Drawing Faces, Step 5...

More shading, more checking. Take a break if you haven't already so you can come back with fresh eyes to see it. You may feel uneasy when you look at the drawing. This is because there is something wrong. You may not know exactly what is wrong, but you will feel awkward when looking at your drawing. A good drawing actually feels "relaxing" to look at because there are no mistakes. When looking at something that is "off", your brain will be trying to correct it, and that will leave a feeling of uneasyness when looking at the picture. So, always trust your instincts.

If something doesn't feel right, go back and check your measurements. Check how the facial features line up. Is the mouth right under the nose? Is the face at an angle? Is something too big or too small. Is the hairline too high or low? Is the jaw and chin too high or low. I had to adjust them a couple times to really feel more satisfied.

Here's a coupe little tricks. One, hold the picture up to a mirror and see if it looks wrong. Looking at it reversed in a mirror can reveal things you couldn't see before. Two, open the picture in photoshop and flip it to see it backwards. Try to get a decent photo of your work if you do that though.

Drawing Faces, Step 6...

Time to finish it up. I wasn't happy with the angles of the eyes, so I fixed that real quick. They weren't lined up properly with the angle of the face. Everybody makes mistakes since most mistakes are actually caused by a lack of "seeing." It is so easy to get lazy and not pay attention. Beginners do this by default (which is why they are beginners). Experts do this at times when they are just no "into" it as much as they could be and drift off into a little lazyness with measuring and placement.

At this stage, you will also be able so see the values and lighting better. So adjust your values lighter or darker if necessary. Keep in mind the planes of the face and where the light is coming from. Reserve your darkest shadows for specific areas. Don't make the eyes too light. Look at where your main shadows are.

This approach to drawing faces is not the easiest. You may like it or you may not. Take your time. Figure out where things go. Do your measurements. Check your angles. Draw more reference lines if it'll help you get things lined up. That's why I don't always do the classical method in its entirety. Sometimes, I get getter results from loosely drawing to feel the proportions.

Practice this method a couple times with sketches before you try a full lengthy portrait this way. The outlines at the beginning are very important. They can be corrected, but if you get them right, you will save yourself a lot of work. Of course, never feel like you're stuck with anything. I don't feel like a line is finalized just because I put it down. I always double check later on to see if it stills looks right. The more experience you get, the easier it'll get to judge accuracy.

I should also mention, that I shade with straight lines as well. It keeps the shading clean looking. Straight lines are great because they show you the true angle. It's harder to tell what the angle is of a curved line. That's why the classical method uses straight lines, especially at the beginning. I do use a slightly curved line here and here though.

And don't forget to check your values. The lightest lights on the face were on the drawing's left side. On the right is farther from the light source and in less direct light from the strongest light source which comes from more of the side than from above. The main light comes from the left. Another light shines from above.

Here's a little trick. When photographing your work, if you can't get the light even all the way around, put the brightest light on the side where the light is coming from in your picture. I put the strongest light on the left, since that was where the strongest light was coming from in the picture. This way, it won't compete with your picture. Of course, the best way is having even light all the way around, but you know how hard that is depending on what equipment and space you have...

Drawing Faces, Final comments...

Become keen on seeing the exact value. It'll make your work look more real. Become sensitive to subtle value changes in both the darks and the lights. I also don't use a blender. I just shade with the pencil. If you use a blender, you have to use if all over or else it makes one part look smoother or darker than the rest.

Do the drawing fairly large, but not too large. I did just under life size for this one. If you work really small, it actually gets harder to get the details and proportions correct. However, at one point when you need multiple figures on a page, they will be smaller. Practice larger for now to get good at it.

Remember, drawing faces is a combination of skills. Learn value, negative space, line, and anything else that can improve your accuracy.

I'll have more tips later on drawing faces. This should be enough to get you started. I'm still not sure if I like the classical method better than the loose sketch method. I will probably combine the two into my own unique style. That's what you should do as well. See what you like, what feels comfortable, and what gives you the best results. But always give each new method time before you veto it. Give it some practice and really try to do a good job. If after a couple times of drawings faces, you aren't liking the approach, try a new one or go back to your old style. You might even just use one technique from a style. It's whatever you want. There are no rules.

I'll be posting some free videos on drawing faces soon, so keep checking back.

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Related Links:

The "Master Art Lessons" Launch Preparation!

Free Lesson: Improve Accuracy with Negative Space.

Pencil Drawing of a Skull for Portrait Practice.

Value Drawing: Easy Ways to Practice.

Lesson: Seeing and Measuring for Accuracy.

Articles: John Singer Sargent.

Secrets: Lines and Form.

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